Showing posts with label ECW. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ECW. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Wargamer's Guide to the English Civil War - review

This is another review in the Once and Future Rules series, of wargame rules that are out of print, but that got a lot of play at one time (at least, in the clubs and groups I played in since the early 1980s).

I have mentioned my love for renaissance gaming in general, and the English Civil War period in particular, several times during this series of reviews.  This time, I would like to review a set of miniature rules that I came to in the mid 1980s, although they were first published in 1974 (a second edition came out in 1977, and that is the edition that I own).  These rules are the 'Wargamer's Guide to the English Civil War' by Bill Protz.  These are still available for sale on Bill's website, along with some of his other excellent rules.


Curiously enough, the first edition of Bill Protz' ECW wargaming masterpiece (i.e. - the volume I am reviewing here) came out in 1974.  It was published by the Myers and Zimmermann wargaming house of Z&M Publishing (Myers and Zimmermann were the lads behind the Angriff rules, and they went on to form a publishing house for wargaming rules - mostly from their neck of the woods up in Milwaukee).

The interesting thing about the publishing year, is that it is one year after the first appearance of Cavaliers and Roundheads, by Gygax and Perren (published by TSR).  From Bill's website, he got interested in the English Civil War, as a wargaming topic, because of Cavaliers and Roundheads (C&R), and also the availability of the Hinchliffe ECW figures.  I seem to recall that TSR needed cash for their new publishing idea, the Dungeons & Dragons boxed set, and that they rushed out C&R for publication in order to raise cash.  The English Civil War must have been a popular period at this time, to not only inspire two great rulesets coming out within a year of each other, but also to convince Mssrs. Kuntz and Gygax at TSR that they could raise capital from selling an ECW rule book.  But they did.  And, furthermore, the Protz book (WGECW) is still highly regarded, and as mentioned above, still for sale.


The English Civil War continues to be a very interesting topic for wargamers, as it not only features in generic, broadbased rules sets such as DBR and Field of Glory Renaissance, but also continues to inspire specific rulesets in popular series' such as Warhammer English Civil War (sadly, now out of print, like the rest of the Warhammer historical series), and Pike and Shotte from Warlord Games (which covers the broader Renaissance, but which has an ECW specific period book - 'To Kill a King' -  due for release the month that this article is being written).  Of course, it has been, and continues a period of interest for me, as well.  On to the rules . . .

WGECW is presented as a 5x8 booklet, 76 pages long.  The book is divided up, generally, into three sections: (1) is an introduction, which gives a very brief overview of the English Civil War, and also reasons for wargaming in this period, (2) is the section containing the rules themselves, and (3) is a series of appendices that introduce information about army composition, painting and uniform information, rules for fighting sieges, and other bits of extra information.  It is this third section that lifts this book from being just a tactical rulebook, to being a wargamer's guide.  C&R did this, somewhat, but not to the extent that Bill Protz has done here.

Initial Concepts
One thing to establish up front, is that the miniatures within the units don't really matter.  Well, that is to say, they matter because it is a miniatures game, and they matter because they bring the splendor and pageantry to the wargame, but they don't matter in the sense of combat being based on particular figures in contact, or even specifically how many figures there are in a unit.  What does matter, is the units CR or Combat Rating.  Now this is typically computed initially from the number of miniatures in a unit (and the point value of those miniatures), but it will change up and down with circumstance, and in fact, the initial CR of a unit might be increased by 25% if the unit is elite.  The unit's CR is what matters, in WGECW.  Combat effectiveness is based on the CR, and losses are subtracted from the CR (although the author suggests that miniatures be removed from a unit, in proportion to CR losses that the unit undergoes).
 The CR is calculated from points values of the miniatures in a formation.  This includes extra points for figures such as officers, flag bearers, and sergeants.  For a mixed formation, such as an ECW formation with a body of Pikemen, and perhaps two flanking bodies of Musketeers, each of those divisions would have its own CR calculated and recorded on a unit roster.

Scale and Unit Types
Game scale is given at 1 inch to 15 yards for the ground, 1 figure to 20 men for the troops.  Basic types of figures are foot, horse, and artillery.

Foot troops can be Open Ordered (such as skirmishing forlorn hope), Ordered (typical musket and pike formation), Double Ordered (half the depth of Ordered formations), or Close Ordered (tightly packed infantry, in order to defend against enemy cavalry).  Finally, there is the possibility of a Ring formation (like a hedgehog, or square formation).

Horse troops can be either Ordered (such as typical charging cavalry), or Open Ordered (such as dragoons or other cavalry, spread out in order to screen), or Caracole (designed to allow pistol fire and recall against an enemy unit).

The rules give basing sizes for troops, which generally doesn't change for the different ordering listed above, EXCEPT for Close Ordered Infantry.  In that case, the player is to remove half the stands of the unit from the table, but to record and remember what their CR is - they have just gotten denser.

Foot unit stands represent three ranks of troops, and Ordered and Close Ordered units are 6 ranks deep, so they should be two miniature ranks (or stands) deep.  Double Ordered infantry are only 3 ranks deep, so are only one stand deep (called Double Ordered, because by halving the depth, they double the length of the formation line).  Horse units and artillery have their methods of representing Ordering on the tabletop.  Open Ordered units, it should be pointed out, have the stands dispersed by a short gap between them - typical skirmishing formation representation.

Turn Sequence
The game turn is divided up into a sequence of events.  Since this is a game that practices simultaneous movement, it features order writing.  Regular readers of this blog will know my affection for simultaneous movement and order writing (similar to my affection for root canal).  When we played these rules, so many years ago, we would write general battlefield orders at the beginning of the game, and our specific turn orders were only changes to those, as well as announcing charges etc.  It helps to have a referee.

The sequenced events of the turn, however, are these:
  1. Both sides write down orders for their units.
  2. Both sides read out their orders, alternating who goes first every other turn.
  3. Moves are performed simultaneously according to orders.
  4. Skirmish Fire is assessed, and casualties immediately calculated and removed.
  5. Artillery Fire is assessed, and casualties immediately calculated and removed.
  6. Other Small Arms Fire is assessed, and casualties immediately calculated and removed.
  7. Melee is adjudicated and resolved.
  8. Turn is complete.

Morale tests can be triggered in any of the firing or melee events.

Movement
Movement is quite straight forward, and is based on some simple charts showing inches, based on the type of movement (and troop type) performing it.  There are some simple reductions and additions based on different circumstances (road movement, move and fire, direction change, etc).  There are some specifics to be followed if a unit of musketeers is going to be firing by introduction (that is, as the ranks fire, and are replaced from the rear, that they slowly move forward), or extroduction (the same, only the unit as a whole slowly moves backward, as firers run to the rear of their file).


Movement for cavalry is slightly more involved, although the chart is every bit as simple.  For mounted troops, the player must determine if the horses are trotting, cantering or galloping.   Rules are given about accelerating through these different states.  A horse, cannot, for instance, go from a simple stand-still to galloping in one move.  It must start at trotting, then the next turn can proceed to cantering, and finally to galloping.  As with foot troops, there are some simple additions or reductions based on circumstance and operations.


Finally, there is a similar table, with similar rules for artillery pieces of different sizes, and different situations.

Small Arms Fire
Once the type of fire (regular, introduction/extroduction, pistol caracole, etc) is determined, then the number of figures, and their CR, can be assessed.  The following procedure is used to determine the number of casualties (expressed in CR reduction to the target unit) is finalized.
  1. Determine CR
  2. Determine Range
  3. Toss 1 die
  4. Check Die Adjustment Chart for mods
  5. Cross reference die results with range, to get an Effectiveness Letter
  6. Cross reference the effect letter, and the CR firing on the Small Arms Casualty Chart, to get the casualty integer.
  7. Modify the casualty integer by modifiers on the final casualty adjustment chart.
  8. Take the final modified casualty integer, and multiply it by the point value of the target troops, and deduct the result from the target unit's CR
One final consideration, is that armored units (foot and horse) have a reduced calculus of how much total CR damage is inflicted.

Artillery Fire
The procedures for doing Artillery Fire, are somewhat different from small arms fire.
  • First,  determine your target, and then based on range there is a chance for the artillery shot to go awry.  If at short range, it is a definite hit, but at medium and long range there is a chance to miss.
  • Second, determine the ranks penetrated (light guns penetrate 2 ranks, medium guns penetrate 3, and heavy guns will penetrate 4).  
  • Third, for each rank penetrated, there is a one point casualty integer, and these are all summed up (so for 3 ranks penetrated, there is a total casualty integer of 3).  This is reduced by terrain (such as firing up- or down-hill).  
  • Finally, multiply the casualty integer times the CR of the troops hit, and reduce this from the target unit.  This total amount is reduced by half in a number of situations.
  • The final CR total is subtracted from the target unit's CR.
There are similar procedures for other types of shot (the above, is for regular round shot, that does damage by bouncing through multiple ranks of soldiers, and killing them).  Shot types include exploding shell and langridge (case, or hail) shot.

Melee
Not surprising, the CR system is core to how melee engagements are adjudicated in these rules.  Each side calculates their current CR (lots of modifiers, such as Horse vs. non-Horse gets multiplied by 125%).  Then, the winner of the melee is determined.  This is done by each side rolling 2d6, and multiplying the result by their unit's CR.  The high score wins the melee combat.  Now, casualties are inflicted as a percentage of the original CR (not the product of the CR multiplied by dice).  The losing side will deduct (from their base CR score) an amount equal to 25% of the winner's CR.  The winning side will deduct 10% of the loser's CR.  The loser then takes, and applies, a morale test.  There are rules for fleeing, pursuits, and how officers affect things.  That is it - it is easy to play out melee combat, and although the impact of multiplying your CR by a 2d6 roll at first blush seems like there can be a lot of variability, the actual casualties (CR deduction) and morale results are more important.

Example combat - Lets say a Royalist Pike and Shot unit, with 12 pikemen (including 2pt command figures), and 12 musketeers will have a total CR of 36.  It is facing a Parliamentarian unit with 8 pikemen and 16 musketeers, or a total CR of 32.  The Royalist player rolls a 7 on the dice, and a total of (7x36) or 252.  The Parliamentarian player rolls a 9 on the dice, and a total of (9x32) or 288.  The Parliamentarian unit wins.  The Royalist unit subtracts (.25 x 32) 8 points from it's CR.  The Parliamentary unit subtracts (.10 x 36) 4 points from it's CR.  The Royalist unit, as the losing unit, will have to test morale

Extras
The rulebook is about half full of appendices. The first few of these go over how units should be organized on the wargames table, and a short guide to painting and flags, as well as advice to the 15mm player (a new scale, for the most part, in the early 1970s).

But then the appendices get more interesting.  There is a subset of rules for doing siege games.  These cover the specifics of affecting fortifications and buildings, as well as rules for grenadoes and other siege equipment.  A series of six different classes of storming/sieging are described, as scenarios and what is to be done in each (as well as victory conditions, and how to represent that sort of siege on the tabletop).

There is a set of notes regarding the organization of armies and the proportion of units, etc, in the years of the First Civil War (1642-1646).  And finally, there are some blank and sample unit rosters (showing a clean way to record unit CR and orders/status).  Lastly, the book ends with a nice glossary of ECW military terms.


Assessment/Conclusion
I owned this book before I owned either Forlorn Hope or 1644 (both of which I played more than these rules).  In fact, the only renaissance/ECW rules I owned before these were the George Gush rules from WRG (and, eventually, Universal Soldier).  I only played these a few times, but I returned to the book for information about the period, and units, artillery types, etc many times over while in my early years of ECW playing.  This was one of those rulebooks that back then (in the 1980s) was in many of the wargaming shops I visited, and also on the rack at vendor booths at wargaming conventions. I saw it a lot, but unfortunately the people I played with did not use it.

One of the things I found disconcerting (more below, as I discuss this effect in regards to shooting) is the fact that the unit is kept track of by its CR, and casualties and effects are based on total CR engaged, and not individual stands or figures.  I understand the reason for this, with mixed units of pike and shot, but it seemed to introduce as many difficulties as it solved, see my comments below about shooting (both musketry and artillery).

The basic scale and representation of the game (in terms of figures per unit, movement and shooting ranges, and also turn/time sequence) works very well.  But for some reason, these rules never quite were the thing in the group I played with. I include it here, because of the impact the book had, and Bill Protz's excellent writing about wargames, not so much because I played it so often (I played almost all the other ECW rules mentioned in this review series - Forlorn Hope, Cavaliers and Roundheads, Universal Soldier, Hackbutt and Pike, and the forthcoming Gush rules and 1644 - more than I played the Wargamer's Guide to the English Civil War).  Eventually, I would get other resources on wargaming units and uniforms and army lists, etc (Forlorn Hope was excellent in that regard, but also great books from Caliver), but early on - this is the book that made me fall in love with wargaming the period.  Even if the rules in this book did not.

Pros/Cons for Musketry and Artillery
Okay, this seems (to me) to be a bit overly complicated, mostly because of the basic structure of WGECW.  The casualty integer is a number of enemy figures killed.  But the final step, of converting it back to points and then deducting it from the CR, is because of the requirement to discuss everything about a unit in terms of CR, rather than in terms of figures. 


I give the author (Bill Protz) the benefit of the doubt, because there are benefits of doing a unit as a whole, even when it is comprised of disparate parts (like pike, officers, halberdiers, and shot all in a large battalia, for instance).  That is always hard to do, and rules for the period (even the latest modern rules) always struggle hard in how to do hybrid units.  The CR system is an elegant way to do it, it just didn't appeal to the people I was playing with.

Wednesday, October 12, 2016

Cavaliers and Roundheads - review

This is another review in the Once and Future Rules series, of wargame rules that are out of print, but that got a lot of play at one time (at least, in the clubs and groups I played in since the early 1980s).
Keep your faith in God, but keep your powder dry.
  - Oliver Cromwell

Cavaliers and Roundheads is a set of rules for English Civil War wargames, published by TSR games.  It was written by Jeff Perren, but with the help of Gary Gygax.  The set I am most familiar with, and have played, and will be reviewing is the second edition, published in 1975.


First, a bit of personal reflection...

This is a great set of rules, that can serve for large wargames (or small, although the combat system's rate of attrition moves pretty fast for a small game), of the sort played at conventions and at wargames clubs.  Many years ago, I used to be lucky enough to play these rules at the wargaming shop where I played and worked, through my undergraduate college years - Campaign Headquarters.  Armies were of the "hundereds of figures per side" variety, sometimes reaching thousands.  Played on a great 6x12 table, with lots of great terrain (although some was clearly medieval - which could be forgiven in the case of stone churches and castles, less so in the case of thatched cottages).  These rules were definitely written with that sort of game in mind, and to be played in glorious 25mm (or 30mm, as the rules point out) - as a good friend of mine refers to - the "one true scale".

I have a sizable collection of 25mm ECW figures myself, although (sadly) they are not painted.  Not-so-sadly, they are mostly of the Wargames Foundry variety (I bought them when Pendragon used to be the dealer here in the United States, and I loved swirling through their drawers of figures, looking for just the right castings).  That is a painting project I have been putting off for years, although relishing it in my mind.  Weird.

What I do have, that I could use these rules for, is a decent sized collection of 15mm figures.  They would work fine, I think, and perhaps a solo game (or even a club game) is in the schedule for the near future.  As I mentioned in the review of Forlorn Hope, ECW (and perhaps, more generally, the entire Renaissance period) has been, and remains, one of my personal favorite wargaming periods.  I can't explain it, but I've always been drawn to the history, the uniforms, and the fighting tactics.  Over the many years I have been a wargamer, it has only been eclipsed, I think, by maybe Medieval, and/or Ancients as a personal favorite period.

NOT from the rulebook, yet how could I resist?

Scale and Turn Sequence

As mentioned the game is played, probably most commonly, and written for 25mm-30mm figures.  It can handle a smaller scale (say, 15-20mm).  Each figure represents 20 men, and the ground scale is not given.  All ranges and movement values are given in inches, for the two scales (listed, 20mm and 30mm).

At the 30mm scale, Pikemen can move 6", and Musketeers 9".  Cavalry can move 12".  There are, of course, other units, those are just given for a feel for the movement speeds.

Long range, at 30mm, for a Musket is 24", and for a Heavy Field Gun, 36".  Pistols may fire a maximum of 6"

There are two possible turn sequences given.  First, there is the possibility for orders, and simultaneous move.  This appears to be pretty freeform, with both sides making a note of all movement, for each unit, and then it is interpreted, executed, and followed up by first Fire combat and then Melee comat.

The second option for moving requires no orders (other than general orders of what turn reinforcements are to arrive, etc).  It is executed this way:

  1. Side "A" moves all infantry units.
  2. Side "B" moves all units.
  3. Side "A" moves all cavalry and artillery.
  4. Simultaneous fire, with all cannon fire first, then everything else.
  5. Surviving troops will then Melee, where applicable.
Once this is complete, then it is repeated, with the two different sides alternating who is side "A".

Movement

As mentioned, there is a simple movement chart with moves given for all unit types in inches, depending on what scale (20mm or 30mm) the game is being played in.  There is no charge move for infantry, but Cavalry and Lobsters can charge move (which is a double move) provided they (1) haven't done a charge move in the previous two turns, OR (2) have not moved at all on the previous turn.  Dragoons (and of course, Artillery) join Infantry in not being able to charge.

Some interesting limitations on movement exist, as well.  While musketeers can freely move and change formation and facing on a single turn, Pikemen can only EITHER move, or change their facing on the same turn.  Also, firing units are limited in their actions, and the game requires reloading.  While cavalry with pistols who perform a caracole, will automatically reload their pistols, Musketeers must do this an action.  A musket armed unit can do two actions per turn - the three allowed are Move, Load, Shoot.  So if the unit moves, it can only either Shoot (if already loaded), or Load (if previously having shot).  If the unit stands in place, it can both Shoot and Load.  Light field guns can also do two actions per turn, but heavy field guns can only do one action per turn.  Other limits also apply, and there are straight forward terrain rules.

Shooting

Musket fire is very straightforward and simple.  Roll 1d6 per firing figure (two ranks can fire), and based on range then hits are scored on results of 4,5,6 for Short, 5,6 for Medium, and 6 for Long.  This is against formed foot (which means Pikemen).  Against cavalry, muskets and artillery all hits are halved.

Artillery is more interesting.  Based on the type a gun, a number of dice are rolled.  A light gun rolls 4 dice, and a heavy gun rolls 3 dice.  Examine the individual dice scores.  At Long Range, the lowest scoring die is the number of hits delivered.  At Medium Range, the next lowest die is the result, and at Short Range, the third lowest die is the result.  I have always liked this system.

There are rules for the carricole maneuver for cavalry with pistols (assume two pistols per figure, if the unit is close enough, and willing to perform the retrograde away, then the front two ranks of cavalry can each fire two pistols at the target unit...).  And there are rules for Hand Grenades.


Melee

Melee is handled by consulting a simple table which gives you how many Ranks are fighting based on the figure type (Pikemen, 2 ranks; Cavalry, 1 rank; etc.).  Also, depending on the target you are rolling against, it gives you a number of dice per figure (ranging from 2 dice per man, down to 1 die per six men), and also the score that will kill figures.    A number of special cases and limitations round out this area of the rules.

This is definitely a system that is related to the "dice per element" sort of combat adjudication mentioned already for both The Universal Soldier and also the WRG Wargames Rules 1685-1845. In this case, it is definitely a "dice per figure" variation, as with The Universal Soldier.  One of the possible criticisms of the rules are that there is no standardized basing (same criticism of Chainmail, although in both cases, I think that the rules were written as club rules first, and in the club they were played, most armies already existed, or there was an unspoken standard basing going on).

Morale

The morale rules are also, like the rest of the set, quite simple.  Roll 2d6, and score a 6 or higher to pass morale.  There are, of course, modifiers.  If a failure is rolled, then the unit retires.  Here you dice for movement (2d6 for 20mm, and 3d6 for 30mm), and also a dice for direction (straight back, or veer off 45 degrees to either side).  Rules exist for regaining control, and also for rolling to keep Cavalry from pursuit.



Extras

There are rules for several optional areas like desertion, elite units, etc.  There is a nice, short section detailing typical units, some army sizes from famous battles, and a simple painting guide that would certainly get a newcomer going in the right (approximate) direction.

Opinion and Comments

These are simple, simple rules.  Perhaps that is why I enjoyed them (there is hardly anything here for a large group of gamers to argue about, and everyone can eventually make a great move or volley of fire).  They don't have the period specific detail of Forlorn Hope or other rules that I also enjoy for the period, but are straightforward enough for a complete neophyte in the time period to enjoy, as well as an old hand, if he doesn't turn his nose up at too much lack of details.  Keep in mind, that I feel these are written for large games (and that is how I most enjoyed them), and the detail is right on the money for that large sort of game.

As mentioned, my 25mm ECW figures remain unpainted.  And yet . . . I do have a 15mm collection that is usable, and growing (meaning: more figures in the works, and on the painting schedule).  The basing dilemma could be solved here, since I use a basing standard that is not too far off something WRG-ish - meaning, that my pike and heavy infantry (billmen from the trained bands, for instance) are mounted on 40mm wide bases, with four figures per base.  My shot are mounted on 40mm wide bases, with three figures per base.   My horse are mounted either 2 or 3 figures per base (lighter horse, such as dragoons, are 2 per base; heavier horse like lobsters or chargers are mounted 3 per base), also on 40mm wide bases.

Given my existing collection and basing, I would feel quite fine doing a game using those figures, and these rules.  Casualty markers would be fine here, probably nylon upholstery rings (my usual poison for 15mm casualty marking).  It could be a fine game.  Certainly one to compare to some of the other ECW rules I play, including Forlorn Hope, The Universal Soldier, and the upcoming (to be reviewed) 1644.

Of course hosting a game with 300 or 400 25mm figures per side, with all the regular cast of ODMS club members playing, would be a fine thing as well.  But wigs, feathery hats, and Spaniels would have to be provided, for the players to really feel like they were in the Recent Unpleasantness.

Friday, October 7, 2016

Forlorn Hope - review

I had rather have a plain russet-coated Captain that knows what he fights for, and loves what he knows, than that which you call a Gentleman and is nothing else.
- Oliver Cromwell, 1643

This is another review in the Once and Future Rules series, of wargame rules that are out of print, but that got a lot of play at one time (at least, in the clubs and groups I played in since the early 1980s).

Cover for earlier edition, frontpiece for the 1991 edition

Forlorn Hope is a set of rules for English Civil Wargames, first published in 1987, that I have been quite fond of over the years, having played many times in 15mm with a variety of friends, especially in the old ODMS club, when it played at Campaign Headquarters, Gamer's Guild, and World's Best Comics.

I currently own a copy of the 1991 printing of the rules, although there are newer editions.  My own set still handles quite well, and has not loosened up at all over the years.  It is a set, according to the design notes of Messrs. Berry and Wilkins, that was designed primarily for tabletop play, and based on tabletop experience, rather than a strict translation of space and time (as in a simulation).  I think it succeeds well.

The units have five possible factors describing them:
  • Arm - Infantry, Cavalry, Dragoons, Artillery
  • Class - Veteran, Trained, Elite
  • Tactics - (Cavalry Only) Trotters (close and shoot), Gallopers (charge home)
  • Order - Normal Order, or Open Order
  • Ratio - (Infantry Only) The ratio of shot to pike, given in the terms of 2:1, etc.
In addition, Artillery comes in different varieties (Ultra Light, Light, Medium), and troops can be in a number of different formations (but can change formation during the game).  Line, Column, Fire Stand (similar to the later Square formation), Cavalry Line, Cavalry Column, and March Column.

With these factors, a great variety of different troops from the English Civil War period can be described.

Units are under orders at any time during the game.  There are chances, based on a dice roll, to change orders (and it depends on what order you are in, and what you are changing to, that determines this - followed by a D6 roll to see success.

The available orders are:
  • Advance to Fire Combat
  • Advance to H-t-H Combat
  • Hold
  • Retreat
  • Screen

The game has the following five steps in a turn sequence:
  1. Declaration and Reaction (new orders, leaders leave units, declare charges, etc)
  2. Movement (move, routers first, then charges, then other units)
  3. Fire Combat and Reaction
  4. Hand to Hand Combat (first casualties determined, then reaction tests)
  5. Reaction and Rallying (situational morale tests, rally from rout or pursuit)
Scale: Movement and Ranges are all given in Inches.  No ground scale is given (see the note on design above).  Figure scale is 1:33, so that a unit of 400 men would be 12 figures.

Determining Combat Factors

There is a single combat table, used for Shot or Melee, which is based on determining a Factor, and then cross indexing it with the number of figures involved.  Those are divided up into groups of 1,2,3,4,5, or 10 - and then a dice is rolled for each group.  The procedure is to go for as few (large) groups as possible, and then the dice roll gives you the number of casualties (based on a casualty table).  So, as an example, if you have 24 figures in an Infantry unit in melee combat.  You would look up its combat factor (which would be based on several things, but chiefly it's shot to pike ratio).  Once you had the factor, you would find that row on the casualty table, and then use the 10 column (rolling on it twice) and the 4 column (rolling on it once) to determine the number of casualties.  In that way, you rolled for 10+10+4, or 24 figures.  Casualties are in whole figures, no record keeping.

A very satisfying set of rules that plays well, although it does have somewhat of an 80s feel to it, especially in the area of Reaction Tests, which are (if I recall) many, and with a half page of factors to consider for plus or minus to the target number.  Once you play a game or two, however, it becomes pretty quick to work through.

Prognosis: I love these rules.  However, I found that it was difficult to convey what is going on to somebody who is not a fan of either ECW or Thirty Years War military history.  The different types of cavalry tactics, and the possibility of infantry units being of different ratios of pike to shot (note: you never change how many figures you have of either type, you just use what you have, but the ratio is all important for figuring out combat factors).  For those who get it, and like it, however - this is a great set of rules for the pike and shot period.  There is a Yahoo group that offers up some rules variants, including a lot of Thirty Years War information.

Two army lists

The rules are also quite complete, for tabletop battles.  Not too much in the way of campaign information, but a wide variety of different armies, and rules on how to select your figures based on the army you choose.  This involves random dicing for things like Ratio and Class.  Again, very satisfying.

One of my favorite periods, and one of my favorite rulesets.  Considering they are almost 30 years old, that is a good thing.

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Renaissance Wargaming



Wow - this was (and I guess still is) one of my favorite periods in history.  Historians (as with most things) quibble over when the Renaissance should be placed (I think it goes well with the dried flowers on the mantle, but I never could decorate properly).  And of course there is some concern over the Northern vs. the Southern renaissance.  However, in painfully broad terms, this refers to the time of transition from the Medieval World to the Age of Enlightenment.  Warfare is characterized by a re-ascendancy of infantry over other arms; a rapid improvement in the worth and effectiveness of firearms; and causes for fighting that coalesce around modern ideas such as nuance in religious identity and nationalism.  In other words, Tercios, Pike & Shot, Roundheads, Sakers and Demi-Sakers, and all that other fun jazz.


There is a website making available a great series of articles from Airfix magazine that were all written by the most excellent wargamer, George Gush.  For those who don't know about George Gush, he is the author of several old-school sets of rules that continue to be played quite popularly.  One of those was the WRG set on Renaissance Warfare.  From the WRG Historical Archives
"In June 1976, a set of War Games Rules for the period 1490-1660 written by George Gush was published and this was followed in April 1978 by a slim book of 41 Army Lists. In 1979, the second edition was published and followed in March 1984 by a much thicker book of Army Lists which now included 90 armies. Since George now owns the copyright, no pdf version is included here."
George Gush's most excellent rules for 1490-1660

Okay, back to the articles.  These were published in the 1970s by Airfix Magazine, and other than a short introduction to the period (Part 1), there are sections on Infantry weapons and Tactics, Artillery, and Cavalry.  Then a whole series of different national army articles.  Very nice.  here is a list of the articles.
The website follows up with some links to other articles that Gush wrote, concerning Renaissance military concerns (from a website called My Armoury that features absolutely fabulous articles on military history as well as sword crafting).

This is mother's milk for a wargamer, and interesting for those of us with an interest in Military History in general.

Now if only Richard Borg would do Commands & Colors: Pike & Shot!

(please don't take this too seriously, it is meant as a joke - and wishful thinking)


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Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Clubmen for the ECW


Wargames Factory just announced the Liberty and Union League - basically something sort of like the 100 club of Eureka Miniatures.

Someone submits a Sprue idea, for figures to be produced in hard plastic. Gamers then sign on to order figures, by committing (with no money down) for a number of sprues. Once the orders reach 500 sprues, photos of the in-progress sculpts are made available. Once 1000 orders are made, each pre-order person then kicks in $1 per sprue, to pay the cost of tooling up. Once finished, they sprues are shipped and the remainder of the cost per sprue (about $4-6 per sprue?) is charged.

Great idea! It works for Columbia Games, GMT Games, Eureka Miniatures and a bunch of other companies.

I put in a sprue description for something that I've wanted for some time (and in a decent quantity), and I can only assume that other ECW gamers would want too. That is a nice, affordable, 17th century armed civilian that would be suitable for peasant mob or armed Clubmen. These would fit into a number of wargaming army lists for ECW, as they fought on their own vs. a number of armies (see Dorset and Wiltshire). Similar armed figures fought for Fairfax against the Royalist army in Yorkshire in 1643.

This figure could also serve very nice as armed mob in the Monmouth Rebellion, or as armed peasants for a Thirty Years War game.

This is not even addressing the usefulness such figures would fill for civilians in a typical Musketeers or Pirates or ECW skirmish game.

So, support the cause! Defend ye homesteads, ye Godly men! Take up the Cudgel and Bible and say Nay! to tyrants and blasphemers! Go to Wargames Factory and put in your order, with the Liberty and Union Leage for Renaissance 17th Century Armed Civilians!

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